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Stop and smell the coffee - Alexandria Times

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By Olivia Anderson | oanderson@alextimes.com

Everyone loves coffee. Well, most people love coffee, but we’ll forgive the tea totalers.

That’s why, for this edition of the Alexandria Times’ Port City Flavor section, I thought I would embark on a caffeine-infused adventure to compare cappuccinos at three of Alexandria’s most beloved coffee shops. I chose to stick to cappuccinos because I have a soft spot for them and honestly, who doesn’t enjoy a good cappuccino?

Some have a flair for presentation and others concentrate more on the bean itself, but each one serves up its own delicious version of the drink we all love so much.

Dolci & Gelati

What’s the verdict? Dolci & Gelati, located across from Market Square in Old Town, deeply understands that cappuccinos should be foamy and frothy. In certain cases, this is something that all too often gets lost during preparation and as a result ends up with the drink more closely resembling a latte. Fortunately, I received my cappuccino in a ceramic blue mug filled to the brim with burbling steamed milk foam, which was as pleasing for the eyes as it was for the taste buds. Plus, the espresso itself was piping hot and the ideal complement to a cozy fall afternoon in an allegedly haunted building – but that’s a story for another time.

The drinks at Dolci & Gelati are made with an Italian Espresso from Greenberry’s Coffee Roasters in Charlottesville, Virginia.

What’s the coffee? According to owner Eric Roper, the coffee comes from Greenberry’s Coffee Roasters in Charlottesville, Virginia. Roper, who graduated from the University of Virginia, also located in Charlottesville, learned of the roastery while in school and was immediately hooked. The espresso drinks are made with an Italian Espresso blend, and the drip coffee is made daily with a rotating selection of beans.

What else is there? Because Dolci & Gelati also specializes in gelato, Roper said most of the unique menu items revolve around gelato-coffee combinations. One popular selection among patrons is the affogato, an Italian-based dessert that features a scoop of gelato “drowned” in a shot of espresso. The shop also offers a Nitro Cold Brew that can be poured over any flavor of gelato. Finally, Roper said the house specialty is the Salty Dirty Chai, which mixes the sweetness of salted caramel gelato with the bitterness of coffee and chai.

“We’re big into the combinations of gelato and coffee. We do have our pump sweeteners, but we like to use gelato to sweeten the coffee as well,” Roper said.

For Five Coffee Roasters

What’s the verdict? If there was an award for best latte art, it would go to the colossal cappuccino I ordered at For Five Coffee Roasters next to the King Street Metro station. Not only could I tell that the barista had fun personalizing my drink with three rows of autumnal microfoam leaves, I also had my work cut out for me when it came to getting through the actual drink. Decadent and filling, this cappuccino tasted creamy and subtle and, yes, I experienced a twinge of guilt upon gulping down the exquisite masterpiece.

What’s the coffee? For Five Coffee Roasters was founded in Queens, New York but expanded to the DMV three years ago, with Alexandria as its first location. Owner Stefanos Vouvoudakis said that the Maspeth, Queens roasting facility sources from 38 different countries of origin and features a blend of Ethiopian Gera, Sumatra and Colombia Nariño.

“The coffees we chose for that blend are very special; they’re Grade A and basically the freshest coffee you can possibly get your hands on,” Vouvoudakis said. “As far as specialty coffee goes in the corporate environment, we’re a perfect match for that.”

What else is there? Beyond the hot cappuccino, customers can try the Freddo cappuccino, which is an iced drink with cold foam on top. There’s also the Gotham Mocha, which Vouvoudakis said is blended with high-end chocolate ganache made by Manhattan’s Gotham Bar & Grill.

“You come into our location and you’re gonna have a balance of acidity, sourness and also the dark-flavored notes,” Vouvoudakis said.

Fontaine Caffe & Creperie

What’s the verdict? Owner of Roastee Toastee Coffee John Moriarity, whose beans have appeared at Fontaine Caffe & Creperie in Old Town since April of this year, said that if he could only use one word to describe his coffee it would be “premium,” and it’s easy to see why. With Moriarity’s devotion to quality and freshness on full display, this small but impactful cappuccino was one of the most vibrant cups I’ve ever tasted. It boasted a rich medley of flavors that were complex but not confused and bold but not bitter, and the coffee-milk-foam ratio was precise. Needless to say, I’ll be back soon.

The coffee at Fontaine Caffe & Creperie comes from Roastee Toastee Coffee, whose owner John Moriarity takes pride in his fresh, single-origin beans.

What’s the coffee? Moriarity looks for very specific elements when searching for where to buy his beans. This includes beans grown in volcanic soil at an elevation of no less than 3,500 feet. The reason for the specificity? Sugar metabolizes slowly, therefore yielding more robust, nutrient-dense beans. Moriarity has bought from Costa Rica; Peru; Colombia; Kenya; Ethiopia; Mexico; Honduras; El Salvador and Brazil.

“Anybody can order coffee from somebody and serve it. The difference that makes Roastee Toastee coffee unique is that I get the absolute best beans I can find, I put a lot of care into how I roast them [and] each one is going to have its own personality,” Moriarity said.

What else is there? Moriarity said Fontaine specializes in straight espresso and the cortado, which is two ounces of coffee and two ounces of milk served in a small shot glass.

He also said he takes pride in accepting suggestions from customers. For instance, someone walked in a month ago and asked for a cafe miel after trying one in Italy. On the spot, Moriarity pulled out some locally-sourced honey, steamed some whole milk and whipped up the sweet drink.

“I’m not only in the coffee business, I’m in the beverage business; if someone has an idea, I’m all ears,” he said.


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